Deloraine, Meander, Kiddy times (29 30 April 2009)

Well, after yesterday's lazy day of stretching, reading, and exploring Deloraine, this morning I biked to Meander, about 17k's south, to talk to Alice's class (age 9) about my bike trip and different ways we can have positive impacts on the environment. It's amazing how different each group of kids I've spoken to have been. This was a great group, and while there were no requests for me to ride my bike, they had lots of bike 'accident' stories to share and like usual, lots of questions. A really great way to finish up my last week in Tasmania.

Mr. Sheep, on his way to talk to some kids about the thrills of cycling

Well, I'm not quite done with Tasmania yet. I've got a bit of biking to do over the next three days. Tomorrow I'll bike from Deloraine to Moina (via Sheffield) where Janet and Alice will pick me up on their way to Cradle Mountain. I'll spend two nights there with them and another family and then bike from Cradle Mtn to Devonport (via Moina, Forth, and Wilmot and thus officially cycling all the way around Tasmania without any gaps)! And somewhere along the way to Devonport I'll hopefully run into Karon (cyclist friend of well known WombatsRUs representative Dianne) and have a companion for the last 20-30ks into Devonport. And then the evening ferry back to Melbourne for some much needed catch up with fellow Oteshalings. Woohoo!
Deloraine to Meander Primary School
Total K's: 41.5
Avg Spd: 19.7 k/hr
Max Spd: 45.8 k/hr
Hours on Bike: 2:06
KM Scary Hill Rating: 1/7

Sidmouth to Deloraine (28 April 2009)

Places we end up. Here. Deloraine, Tasmania, Australia, Earth. First, lovely, warm-hearted hosts to say goodbye to. A+ bike rides. Stunning river roads. Mad dogs to avoid. Huge brown ones, leaping over their gate to chase me down the street. Growling at the fence, rottweilers, luckily not jumping over anything. One way to get my heart rate up. And me smiling and shaking my head when they let me get away. Exeter turn off. Hungry cyclist in a bakery can cause a lot of damage to wallet. Turning off onto remote country roads. Paved, yay. Undulating hills. Nearly 30k's and “I'll stop at the top of this hill.” Chanting myself upwards with “I. Want. That. Do.nut. I. Want. That. Do.nut.” Mmm, donut. Shimmering green farm hills with dozens of sheep. Blue and sun and chilly in the shade. A racing cyclist passing me by. Looping back, am I okay, yes I'm okay, just finished my lunch. As he cycled away I gawked and thought, “I want calves like that!” 1500 k's later and my legs do not look like that. More hills to come but I like them now, so it was fun. Dead hawks, twisted, splayed, missing head. Butterflies, grasshoppers, alive, teasing me. Flocks of rosellas and yellow-tailed black cockatoos so close. So stunning. The feeling of fall. Yellow leaves, wind. “It's seasonal.” The smell and the whirring. This isn't Bellingham and I'm not cycling to an apple farm. Memories triggered by familiar scenes. Busier roads and farmlands and don't ask me why I didn't stop at the public toilet in Westbury. Crouching behind my bike on a gravel turn-off. I don't think anyone saw anything. Choc. Mint slice. Happy moments. Before the sun went away and it got cold. 7 k's left to Deloraine. Rivers and this is it, you've seen Tasmania. “Take it in. Take it all in. This is a time that will not come again.” Very aware of my dwindling time here. To Janet's place and searching for the key she left for me. Ravioli dinners and yet another friendly, caring person to spend my time with. Showers, dancing, and sleep with Mr. Sheep, the usual favorite things to look forward to post cycling.
Sidmouth to Deloraine:
Total K's: 76.84
Avg Spd: 16.3 k/hr
Max Spd: 49.3 k/hr
Hours on Bike: 4:41
KM Scary Hill Rating: 2/7

Sidmouth Days with Gill, John, Sam, and Ellen (26 and 27 April 2009)

After dinner, playing “I spy.” “I spy with my mind's eye.” “I spy with my little eye something starting with “ch.” Ellen sounding out “ch.” Something outside. “Chair?” No. “Something that grows.” “Chives?” No. Sam asks, “Chulips?” “Yeah, chulips!” Birthday parties for six year olds. Chocolate cake and siting around a table listening to children stories. Then sea kayaking in Alaska and avoiding bears. Bon fires in the evening. “Dad, can we get the explosives out now?” ?? Pancakes again in the morning. Cozy cubby sleep outs. Day trips along the river up to Narawntapu National Park. Coast treks. No wombats to see, though pademelons, wallabies, and plenty of dazzling sea. Ice-creams on a bench in the sun. Exhausting rides back to my cubby house, but friendly faces and kids and adults laughing into hysterics.
Sidmouth to Green's Beach (via Beauty Point) Day Trip, RT
Total K's: 65.46
Avg Spd: 19.2 k/hr
Max Spd: 47.6 k/hr
Hours on Bike: 3:24
KM Scary Hill Rating: 1/7

Bridport to Sidmouth (25 April 2009)

Dear Tasmania,

Congratulations. I don't know how you've done it, but you've turned me into a hill lover. I'm not sure exactly when it happened, but glancing through old journal entries I see that as far back as April 1 (Queenstown to Lake St. Clair), I listed climbing up the hills as one of my favorite parts of the day! And then on yesterday's ride again, thoroughly enjoyable! This is worth mentioning, Tas, because I used to go to great lengths to avoid any sort of uphill back home in Bellingham, WA. Zigzagging through neighborhoods, taking the long way home, complaining bitterly about the final, 200m uphill stretch to reach the garage. So really, thank you, Tasmania, for turning me into the best hill-climbing cyclist I can be.

Sincerely,
Kelsey

PS: Now, please don't go crazy, out of control with hills on my last few rides since I've told you this. Keep it within reason. Thx.

Bridport to Sidmouth
Total K's: 73.18
Avg Spd: 16.5 k/hr
Max Spd: 48 k/hr
Hours on bike: 4:24
KM Scary Hill Rating: 3/7

Blackmans Lagoon to Bridport (24 April 2009)

Yay. Now I am here in Bridport. Its a rainy day and I am thrilled to have a short cycling day today. Tossed and turned all last night again, not due to paranoia, just couldn't sleep. I am actually very proud of myself for getting through the night without any freak outs. This was only my second time camping completely alone without anybody else nearby, and my first time in Australia. Camping alone is definitely not where I feel bravest. But even so, I tucked my tent away in the trees and stayed awake as long as possible to try and avoid the restless, middle of the night (lack of) sleeping. So much for that idea. The sunrise was once again beautiful and it was so nice seeing all the black swans out on the lagoon. Plus, half a dozen swallows darting around, which maybe, just maybe I will be able to identify when I look in my book later today.

I got in at 10am, after meeting Jeff 10 ks from town who was out cycling for his daily exercise. He escorted me into town and showed me the best place to get ice-cream. And now I am looking forward to a warm shower and some food (real food, then yes, ice-cream). The simple things in life.

xoxo.

Blackmans Lagoon to Bridport
Total K's: 27.09
Avg Spd: 17.8 k/hr
Max Spd: 42 k/hr
Hours on bike: 1:31
KM Scary Hill Rating: 0/7

Deep Creek Campground to Blackmans Lagoon Campground (23 April 2009)

23 April 1:30pm. Gladstone
Tired! Want to be done cycling. Just want to read book and sit in sun. And sleep. I did not sleep well last night. Had strange dream of not being able to move or scream and wild animals coming up behind me, in my hair. I've had that before in some form, like absolute, paralyzed terror or something. Blehk. The sunrise sky was beautiful. Had a cup of tea with the Anderson's while eating my delicious muesli, had more powdered milk than usual and my last smooshed and oozy banana. Yummy. I left around 9:30 and the road: I thought it would be better once on my way to Gladstone, but if possible, it was worse! So sandy. So corrugated. Funny that I was listening to Beach Boy's "Good Vibrations" this morning while packing up my stuff. I stopped at 24k to food up and the Anderson's came by. They slowed and Calum shouted, "want some cake?" Me? Cake? They gave me the rest of what they had, told me to have a good ride and be careful. As I left, I stood there grinning, taking a giant bite of fruit cake. Yet another amazing set of people. The road continued to suck and several times I had to get off my bike and walk since the sand was so deep. Big hills or corrugated hell? Tough choice. At least its something different. Wow, I really don't want to cycle anymore today.
6:35pm. Blackmans Lagoon Camping Area
Wow, I am tired! But glad to be camping for free even if I'm a little on the scared side. "Think brave." Every thing will be okay. There are so many noises in the Australian bush. Banded Lapwings yapping their heads off. Kookaburras. Swans. Crows. Parrots. Wallabies hopping/thudding around my tent. I like having them around. And who knows what else. That's all okay, as long as there are no scary, bad people. And no pine cones/branches falling on me or the tent (or Goat). Once I got started after Gladstone, (which was hard to do! I sat on the swings for a while before getting enough momentum to get up.) I zipped along. I don't know where all that energy came from (cake?), but I was powering down then up the rolling hills, and when the road turned into dirt, that didn't stop me - 20-25 k/hr. It was awesome. I missed the turn-off for the camping area I was intending to go to, but its good cause it was a dozen or so more Ks out there and this one is only 2 ks from the main road to Bridport. Which is where I will head tomorrow. Even though my body can physically cycle day after day, it gets a little pooped. And I am in need of many long massages after what these dirt roads have put me through!
Deep Creek to Blackmans Lagoon
Total K's: 79.51
Avg Spd: 15.8 k/hr
Max Spd: 52.6 k/hr
Hours on bike: 5:01
KM Scary Hill Rating: 2/7
Crap Road Rating: 5/7

St. Helen's to Deep Creek Campground Mt. William National Park (22 April 2009)

Its amazing how much other peoples energy affects mine. I try to stay in tune with myself, but its so easy to be thrown off balance. Mind was kind of blank for lots of the ride. had to consciously direct myself away from paranoid 'attacker' thoughts. The road was pretty good until the turnoff for Eddystone Point Lighthouse. That's when the corrugated, sandpit hell began. Wow, it made me cranky and my body can feel it tonight, ouch. Finally made it to the lighthouse carpark. Only two fishermen bringing their boat out of the water. I rode up to the lighthouse and was hit with an intense amount of loneliness. There were pieces of dead birds everywhere and the lighthouse door was locked. "I miss my dad. I want Dad here." A connection to driving down the Oregon Coast with Dad, I suppose. The ride to the campground was a bit better. On the way there I said to myself, "I want a family." Ask and you shall receive. The only other people there were a couple and a young girl. Calum, Lucianne, and Morag, originally from Scotland. Super friendly. Fed me 'hippy soup' which was delicious and so much more appealing than sandwiches! Sat around sharing stories - Calum spent 6 months cycling through Nepal and India on a single speed, crazy! And now he does lighting on all the Survivor sets, how cool to get to go to all those places! I'm so glad I feel safe tonight. Amazing stars.
St. Helen's to Deep Creek, Mt William National Park
Total K's: 61.79
Avg Spd: 14.2 k/hr
Max Spd: 116 k/hr? Hmm, Mr. Bike Computer most have gone a little cuckoo on that crap sand road.
Hours on bike: 4:19
KM Scary Hill Rating: 3/7
Crap Road Rating: 4/7

St. Mary's to St. Helens (via Mt. Elephant Pancakes and the coastal A3)

"Pancake hill or hungry flat - the cyclist's dilemma."

Indeed. But my thoughts as I reached Mt. Elephant Pancakes were exactly these: "No way! No wayyy!" That, by Tasmanian standards, was a baby of a climb! "Do I even deserve to eat gourmet pancakes after such a paltry effort?" Going down the hill on the other side, I can see what all the fuss was about, but wow, I was shocked. Goes to show you (and by you I mean me), that hills I worry and stress about end up being a piece of (pan)cake! Harhar. Yet all those surprise hills wipe me out me out completely! Maybe cause this was the beginning of the day... But so easy, I can't believe it. And the two pancakes I had were very tasty. Though they should be called crepes. Because American style flapjacks are the real 'pancake' in my mind, and that's still where my devotion remains.

Now, I didn't write much else about this day in my journal so what can I remember? Hmm, must have been a nice ride. I stayed with Sally's son and girlfriend in St. Helen's and we went out to the coast for a quick look and had a yummy veggie/pasta dinner. And oh how I love big beds that I can sleep diagonally across!

St. Mary's to St. Helen's
Total K's: 65.77
Avg Spd: 17.6 k/hr
Max Spd: 49.2 k/hr
Hours on bike: 3:43
KM Scary Hill Rating: 2/7

Rossarden to St. Mary's (20 April 2009)

The most peaceful, uneventful ride I've had thus far. And for once, I don't have gazillions of things I want to write about. Very happy to be staying with Sally and Michael here in St. Mary's, friends of friends of friends of friends (Ange - Nick - Dianne - Phil/Margaret - Sally). I've been passed through the cycling circuit now to the Tasmanian volunteer ambulance circuit! Wee-ooo!

Rossarden to St. Mary's
Total K's: 49.85
Avg Spd: 17.7 k/h
Max Spd: 55.6 k/hr
Hours on bike: 2:48
KM scary hill rating: 0/7, the glory.

Rossarden (19 April 2009)

"You are looking a bit tired, though not as bad as you did yesterday!" -Phil

"You alright? What's wrong - where you going?" -Phil to me when I stood up after sitting at the kitchen table for two hours reading his "life story."
"Yes, fine. Some people have to go to the toilet sometimes, you know."
"Oh, yeah. Well, we could get you a commode!"

Some people are too amazing, peculiar, fascinating, and lovely to try and explain through words.

Today was a much needed second rest day full of: crumpets, tim tams (oh yes), hot chocolate, reading Phil's memoirs (so interesting! if only everyone i knew would write theirs. mom, dad. cindy, andy. gram, grandpa...do this!), biscuits, tea, cat cuddles, laughter, rest, and a drive down the windy, steep hill to a "blessing of the path" ceremony in Cleveland for a historic, convict built chapel with cakes and hot chocolate. I won't comment on how such eating habit can lead to stomachaches!

Margaret and Phil. Rossarden Hosts of the Month! Though they did force A LOT of those cookies on me. They kept pulling out secret stashes of tim tams and other sweets like they thought I was a never-ending cookie disposal!

And they thought I was weird sucking tea through a tim tam! Here's Phil eating a banana and margarine sandwich!

See Phil, I will put disgraceful photos of myself on the internet too!
Contemporary art. Cookies other than tim tams can be eaten the same way (sucking liquid through center), though they leave a much bigger mess in your tea cup and disintegrate into your hands halfway to your mouth. making you look like a sloppy, uncivilized, american guest.

mr. sheep relaxes by the fire. he really lives the good life.

So, Margaret and Phil, thank you very very very much for having me stay in Rossarden and letting me steal your cat's bed for three! nights. I enjoyed all the birds and wallabies and possums out your window, reading Phil's memoirs of course, and the gracious supply of tim tams and hot chocolate. Thank you. (Even though you slice bread with scissors, Phil!)

Swansea to Rossarden (via Royal George and Avoca) 17 April 2009

Rather than head directly up the east coast as planned, I decided to cut inland for a few days in the most direct route possible to Rossarden. Town of about 70 people, including Phil and Margaret, friends of wombatsRus superhero, Dianne:

hehehe, just be glad i didn't put the one of you in the nightgown up!!

Part one: Swansea to Cranbrook:
Flat, speedy, sunny, happy

Part two: Cranbrook to end of dirt road before Royal George:Dirt road take 2. Beautiful! Well maintained. Big hill climb, but pleasant. Hardly any traffic. Seas of trees!

Part three: End of dirt road to Avoca:Headwind + stomachache = sure-fire way to ruin a miraculously flat, traffic free 30k stretch of road. KiloMike miserable! Though this little bus shack made it into my top three highlights of the day for allowing me a 10 minute rest from the wind!

Part four: Avoca to Rossarden :
Dirt road, just a little. Then pavement. And with only about 15 Ks to Rossarden to go, the absolute last thing any exhausted, seriously in pain cyclist wants to see: Steep, wahh.

All in all, a very painful ride. But lucky perhaps, because if I had stuck to the east coast, I would have reached the infamous Pancake Barn on top of Elephant's Pass with a stomachache, the horror! Instead, I arrived at Phil and Margaret's home just as it turned dark, exclaiming to Phil coming out to greet me, "I have never been so happy to be somewhere in all my life!" After trying deliriously to hold up a conversation, I had a magnificent shower and some eggs and toast. I hadn't eaten since 12 when some combination of normally ok food items did me in. So even with a stomachache, though it was better, I was hungry. I fell asleep the moment my head hit the pillow. And this morning - gone! Yay! My legs were so tired last night that I had trouble even sitting down on the toilet! But they are feeling good again this morning, amazing how bodies work. I do like my rest days, though, so Rossarden - rest here I will! Phil gave me a lovely walking tour of the town, detailing where the old tin mining area was and all the accompanying barracks and buildings. And Margaret just stuffed me full of soup, homemade macaroni and cheese, and apple pie.

I told Phil and Margaret (originally from England) that I was a vegetarian. And Phil says, "Hmm, vegetarian. Do you eat bacon?" "No." "You eat chicken?" "No."

Swansea to Rossarden
Total K's: 87.02
Avg Spd: 12.8 k/hr (gotta love it!)
Max Spd: 53.9 k/hr (in the near dark, in the cold, praying that a wallaby didn't jump out spastically on the road)
Hours on bike: 6:46
KM Scary Hill Rating: 5/7 (only two hills, but that 2nd one... killer)
KM Scary Wind Rating: 4/7
KM Scary Stomachache Rating: 4/7

Swansea Lazy Day (16 April 2009)

High winds today so I am staying put in Swansea. Treating myself to massive scoops of ice-cream and a pillow, a safe bed. And then again, the curious question of where to go next. East West North. Long days. Short days. I like this feeling of being able to go anywhere.

Orford to Swansea (15 April 2009)

April 15 evening Journal.

Exhaustion. At the end of long days. Where my favorite three things happened before 12:30 in the afternoon. Sunrise beach walk. Feet in retreating sand. Hot shower, 7k up the road in Triabunna. Getting rid of yesterdays grime. About time. And, like a child being lead through the candy factory. A man standing in his doorway. “Here, try this one…” “And now this, it’s a different species.” Peaches. Figs, which I never knew to like. He said, “Now, since you are new to these, don’t eat too many at once.” Yes, especially if I’m camping away from toilets. “Kale?” Apple, grapes, yes, and two walnuts, recently blown from their tree. Generosity. Simplicity. Sharing abundance. Bio-dynamic with the help of chooks. Candice asking, finally realizing just what a chook is. Waiting out thunder, down pouring rain. In the bathroom “hallway.” Still smiling then. At a coffee shop, a long ago finished hot chocolate and smartie cookie. Not as big as the one I shared with Mr. Ew Sheep in Halls Gap when we snuck outside with cups of soy milk and said cookie to plan our Mongolia by horse Honeymoon. People off cycling in different places. Once the rain cleared, I thought I had to race it. Pedaling hard. Erratic wind. Pushing me. Halting me. Then knocking me sideways. The ocean views. Farmland. Fresh air. Freshest on this planet, I hear. From people who fed me hot cross buns for breakfast. After three servings of muesli. It was all I had left. Eating a second dinner at 2:30 in the morning. I had to, I was starving. Wide awake. The half moon. Ocean bays. Back to biking. I was getting agitated. Demanded to know where the Mayfield Coastal reserve camping area was. I wanted to be done cycling for the day. And I could see them, the dark clouds, they were coming. Faster. Harder. Only me and this stretch of pavement. White lines. So many branches I had no choice but to run over. Several times I lost concentration. Off to the side, swerving too widely. “Hello!” I made it to the camping area. Literally, was swarmed by ½ a dozen kids. Dirt on their faces. A dozen questions and people with family sized tents everywhere. Men, in a circle, drinking their beer, glancing at me. I stuffed a piece of bread in my mouth, a peach, some peanuts, and pedaled away. Yay intuition, yes, keep going. Go away. A rainbow in the sea. Green. Early evening, post rain light. No more rain came. Left me. Went over me. I never found the secret camp spot John, the peach man, told me about. Before I knew it I was in Swansea. I wanted a $30 B&B. I wanted Ron and Lola. And Dianne’s dining room. And the monstrous, warm bed In Queenstown. And the kitchen at Dave and Rebecca’s. I wanted out of the cold. Out of the wind, without having to talk to anybody. First I sat by a wall, overlooking water, views of Freycinet National Park. Agitated. Grumpy. Wanting to kick things. Whoever’s inside me, taking care of me. “Eat!” So I ate. Rode down to the backpacker hostel. Surprisingly nice. A young German learning the ropes, and the manager – who’s leaving in May to cycle from Darwin to Hobart. Other people’s kindness, making my grumpy mood disappear. Tired, yes. I am tired. Sunburned, wind burned. Well fed.

Orford to Swansea
Total K’s: 60.95
Avg Spd: 17.7 k/hr
Max Spd: 54.9 k/hr
Hours on bike: 3:25
KM scary hill rating: 1/7

Connellys Marsh to Orford (14 April 2009)

Dirt in yer face. Or – Who’s idea was this? Or – How slow can you go?

Good thing my sense of humor came along for the ride today because it was… an experience.

Imagine this: You get a 9am start after a relaxing morning by the sea. You drop a box off at the post office in Dunalley, sending Tash in Melbourne the few excess items you don’t need – but have been carrying for the last 3.5 weeks anyway. Like, somehow, you know, today is a day you can no longer afford to have any extra weight. You take a pee/food/stretch break at Copping before turning on the C335, a dirt road where all your dreams can come true.

Ah, dirt roads. Really, they are so nice. Especially when they aren’t just any dirt road. Oh no, this is a bumpy, pothole filled, loose rocks everywhere type of dirt road. You get to go at a slower pace. Appreciate the wind more. Not to mention all the dust blown up by passing cars. And if that wasn’t enough dirt in yer face, take the opportunity to swerve into the 5-inch deep bit of gravel on the side of the road and body slam yerself right into that lovely dirt. Just be sure to do this on an uphill, traveling at a pleasant 5 k/hr to avoid any serious injury. At the top of this climb, you get a good look over Marion Bay. See, that’s what you came this way for! Well, soak it in, it’s the last ocean view you’ll see from this dirt road.

So steep, how did I do it?Oh, that's better, phewThe one, lovely, motivating ocean viewyes, soaking it in!

After several more hills and some scary, bumpy descents, you make it to the Wielangta Forest Reserve Picnic sight. Just in time too, you are starving. How you ever lived without daily peanut butter and nutella sandwiches before, you’ll never know. You try to relax a little here, but you are lucky to meet the most persistent and annoying bumble bee on the island of Tasmania. So after repeatedly telling it through clenched teeth, “Idontlikeyou. Gooooaway,” you give up and get on yer bike. You rush downhill only to be greeted by a monstrously bumpy and steep slope. “Crap!” You cry out for granny gear, but its too late, and you have the chance to nearly face plant again – and again, as you try to re-start. No, no. Loose rocks and steep = pushing yerself (and bike) up the hill. Be glad you got that practice in Hobart as yer calves quadruple in size and you wonder, who’s idea was it to take this route!?

A plummet into treelandnutella, peanut butter, mmm

Now, in case you are having so much challenging fun on this dirt road, which of course you are up to this point, why don’t you miss the turn-off to the less hilly, ocean view, soon to be a paved road? Well, this is yer lucky day, that turn-off isn’t signed! Even when you come up to a road that you think must be it, you’ll pass it, cause again, surely, such a road would have a sign! As a reward for yer chosen path, you get a never-ending climb UP! But before you start this climb, you’ll see it coming from a distance on a rare, ongoing stretch of flat road. You may be close to tears and feel like chucking your bike in the gully:

but have no fear, just pull over (careful in the deep gravel), eat a carrot and some nut mix, check the map again, and off you go you wonderkid, hill tackler, you. You’ll show that mountain who’s boss! On the way up, be sure to let out a wahoo and celebrate just how slow you can go, 3.9 km/hr, you rock!

i climbed up all this way to thumbs lookout, and it looked good from here, no need to go 2ks on a side road further up!

Of course all that effort comes along with a terrifying descent where the road gets bumpier and the rocks bigger. Even though you have to stop several times for fear of over heating yer tire rims (does that actually happen?), and even though you become incredibly cranky and only want off this damned road, you soon see a sign that says “Orford” and the most beautiful thing of the day. Sorry stunning gum trees along the way, but the pavement wins! If you make it the last few K’s in to Orford with only a scratch on yer knee, a 1cm thick coating of grime on every inch of yer skin, and a ½ smile still on yer face, well, congratulations, you get to be yer own hero for the day.

And as a real reward, the caravan campground you planned to sleep at will be closed, and you’ll meet another pair of ‘grey nomads’ who’ve found a free camping spot just a couple 100 meters down the road. After pitching yer tent, you’ll gladly take the two apples they offer you for dinner and don’t you ever forget how delicious muesli and powdered milk can be at the end of such a day. And the sunset- pastel sky, bay, Maria island, wow, this really is yer lucky day.
Connellys Marsh to Orford
Total K’s: 57.50
Avg Spd: 12.3 k/hr
Max Spd: 49.9 k/hr
Hours on Bike: 4:40
KM Scary Hill Rating: 6/7 (with the downhill worse than the up)

Connellys Marsh and the Peninsula (13 April 2009)

Quiet. Dolphins! Moon! Sea-kayaking! Ping-pong! Beach shacks. Change of heart. Coastal cliffs. Double ice-creams. Pastel sunsets. Early to bed.

Connellys Marsh to Doo Town / Devil’s Kitchen (Round Trip)
Total K’s: 66:09
Avg Spd: 17.9 k/hr
Max Spd: 46.1 k/hr
Hours on Bike: 3:40
KM Scary Hill Rating: 1/7

South Hobart to Connellys Marsh (12 April 2009)

Wow. Quite an incredible day. Started off with a severe case of nervousness. Not wanting to leave Hobart. Wanting to leave. And so on. After talking to my sister and mom, I finally got all my stuff together, showered, and hit the road. Per usual, felt immediately calmer and content. Thoroughly enjoyed the downhill run into the center of town. But getting out of town – ICK! So much for my idea that there would be less traffic on Easter Sunday. I’d read rumors of the cycle way leading to stairs to get up onto the bridge leaving the city, so I stayed on the highway. Before I knew it, I was on the bridge, stuck cycling along next to all the cars even though a foot up to my left was a narrow walkway. Had several hairy highway crossings in order to stay on the A3 to Sorell. After 15k, it mellowed a bit, and at least I had a shoulder to ride on! I was singly loudly to myself, Tom Petty of course (how I’d never heard “Change of Heart” and “Yer So Bad” before I don’t know, but now I sing them all the time). Feeling great. And then, “toot toot toot!” Ron and Lola!! I waved, laughed, and sang even louder, zooming along at 30-35 k/hr thanks to a nice, mellow downhill. After the roundabout to the airport, there they were, pulled into a gravel parking area. I rolled in to Ron, with a massive grin on his face. “How’s my girl?” They each gave me a kiss on the cheek and Ron said, “C’mon – come inside and get your tea.” They fed me a cheese and tomato sandwich, and two chocolate biscuits. After chit-chatting for a while, it was time to get moving again. Ron stuck another biscuit in my hand and one in my mouth. I laughed and away I went. Funny how some peoples’ paths keep crossing.

South Hobart – Connellys Marsh
Total K’s: 52.94
Avg Spd: 19.3 k/hr
Max Spd: 53.3 k/hr
Hours on Bike: 2:44
KM Scary Hill Rating: 2/7

Adios Hobart

After exploring the myriad of hiking trails around Mt. Wellington yesterday, I am biking off towards Connellys Marsh today, and then up to the east coast via the Sandspit Forest Reserve. Thought I'd give these Tassie hills a try on some lightly trafficked dirt roads, with ocean views to motivate me along.

Happy Easter!

Until next time...

Bird List (for those bird lovin friends of mine)

To be continuously updated (recent sightings in bold):

Scaly-breasted Lorikeet
Australian Brush Turkey
White-plumed Honeyeater
Australian White Ibis
Australian Wood Duck
Australian Pelican
Red Rumped Parrot
Pied Currawong
Musk Duck
Brolga
White-eared Honeyeater
Yellow-faced Honeyeater
Australian Raven
Golden Whistler
Rainbow Lorikeet
Grey Butcherbird
White fronted Chat
Welcome Swallow
Little Wattlebird
Scarlet Robin
Purple Swamphen
Red Wattle Bird
Yellow Wattle Bird
Noisy Miner
Laughing Kookaburra
Crescent Honeyeater
Yellow Throated Honeyeater
New Holland Honeyeater
Flame Robin
Pink Robin
Grey Fantail
Willie Wagtail
Magpie Lark
Australian Magpie
European Greenfinch
European Goldfinch
House Sparrow
Silvereye
Superb Lyrebird
Superb Fairy Wren
Striated Pardalote
Thornbill (Tasmanian or Brown??)
Eastern Spinebill
Grey Shrike Thrush
Black Currawong
Tasmanian Native Hen
Black Swan
Pacific Black Duck
Eurasian Coot
White Faced Heron
Banded Lapwing
Pacific Gull
Silver Gull
Crested Tern
Pied Oystercatcher
Crested Pigeon
Yellow Tailed Black Cockatoo
Gang-gang Cockatoo
Galah
Little Corella
Sulphur Crested Cockatoo
Australian King Parrot
Crimson Rosella
Green Rosella
White Bellied Sea Eagle
Wedge-Tailed Eagle

Hobart Relaxation Times (10 April 2009)

My lovely hosts headed off to Tullah for Easter this morning, after a delicious breakfast of fresh lemon, carrot, apple, beetsroot juice and muesli. I am here "house-sitting" for a day, or two, or three. I haven't decided yet which route I want to take to the East coast, and when I want to get there. So for now I am eating lots of chocolate, listening to good 'ol Tom Petty, and resting up. No physical efforts of any sort today! Well, except for a bit of dancing around the kitchen.

Sarah, Katie, Rebecca and Dave (back) and Roseanna, Claire and Zeus in the front

Thank you, Boyle family, for your incredible hospitality and for welcoming me so warmly into your home!

Hobart School Visits (9 April 2009)

Yay! Such a good decision to come here a few days early. My energy is back and I am feeling re-energized after two nights with Rebecca, Dave, Katie, Claire, and Roseanna. I feel almost like a part of their family. Very comfortable and welcome and able to relax. And the school talks today! Hooray! So much fun! The recess time with the "Green Cadets" was a bit chaotic and out of control, but okay. They seemed to have fun with the web of life string game and then the limbo at the end.

The year 3-4's were awesome! I talked for about 10 minutes about my journey so far then asked for questions. They had a never-ending amount. What was in my pannier? Where did I sleep? Where did I go to the toilet? What did I eat? Who was my favorite superhero? (this was the toughest question!) Did I carry a TV with me? Where did I get the money to do this? Had I fallen off yet? What was the duct/gaffa tape for? What were my favorite foods? I passed around my 'bike maintenance' kit and one boy pulled out the greasy chain cloth, holding it lightly between two fingers. "And what is this!?" They wanted me to ride my bike for them which was a strange request, but hard to deny. So as I circled around the netball court, they yelled, "faster! go your fastest." I gave them one small trick: a wheelie! They didn't seem to mind that my front tire only got 3 inches off the ground!

After talking to the 3-4 years, Rebecca and I rode down past battery point, beautiful historic homes and sea views! Then we had veggie lanska at Salamanca Square, yumm! Then off to Katie's school where I talked to two year 6 classes. They weren't quite as excited about everything as the last group, but still very polite and had lots of questions. Afterwards, Rebecca showed me to the Sustainable Living Foundation where I read all sorts of info for over an hour. One stat sheet said that cyclists burn between 9-16 calories per minute! That still seems really high to me, but it would explain my never-ending appetite. On the way 'home, I got a bit lost and had to bike up the craziest hills. Terrifying! And at the top I was only met with a dead end. After asking for directions, I finally found my way back. Felt exhausted and chowed down nachos with Katie and Rebecca. Made Lemon Delicious Pudding for dessert and then went to sleep, stuffed beyond belief.

Something Wild Wildlife Sanctuary to South Hobart (8 April 2009)

I left the wwoof farm a few days early to meet Rick and Barbara's (from Tullah) daughters (Rebecca and Sarah) in Hobart. And to give a short talk at some of the schools about my bike trip. As much fun as raking roo poo was, I'm glad I left early because though the animals were great, the people energy was not so great. I think I am done wwoofing in Tasmania for now.

What a scenery change! Lots of farmland, vineyards, and orchards! Really pretty. Was a very mellow ride until I followed the Lonely Planet Cycling Australia's advice to cut through Molesworth. "While it is physically easier to follow main roads along the valley to Hobart, its farm more pleasant to ride via Molesworth, climbing over a spur of the Wellington Range..."

i appreciate how this photo makes this road look flat. so not flat!

I'm not sure pleasant would be the right word for this detour. It's hard to enjoy the scenery when you're sweating buckets and pedaling with all your granny gear might to get up a constantly steep, windy hill with even steeper bits thrown in every other bend, just for fun. I stopped along the way, heaving and contemplating pushing my bike up the rest, but that seemed worse. Though I do feel much more fit at this point in my Tasmania trip, hills are still hills, apparently.

Me looking my best. Molesworth hill, I do not like you.

I reached the top and then zipped down all the way to the outskirts of Hobart. Luckily, I found the intercity cycle-way quickly, cause Hobart is missing bike lanes. I got in touch with Rebecca and got directions to her house, 3k's up towards Mt. Wellington. If only I had taken a picture of the San Francisco like steep suburban streets! (Like that hill by Gram's house in San Diego, x 2 or 3 in length). When I saw it, I didn't even try. I got off Goat and pushed my way to the top. That way of getting up hills is not easy, either. Then I got back on and was met randomly by Maria, a close friend of Rebecca's. We rode together up to the house, and I was so so grateful for distraction for the final uphill climb, as I was exhausted by this point.

Rebecca and Dave's place is so cozy! Three kids, Katie, Claire, and Roseanna. And Zeus the poodle! Amazing food and an incredibly welcoming family. Hooray!

Something Wild Wildlife Sanctuary to South Hobart

Total K's: 71.95
Avg Spd: 15.3 k/hr
Max Spd: 54.6 k/hr
Hours on bike: 4:40
KM scary hill rating: 5/7 (toughest hill of trip and my first walk up a hill!)

wwoof farm animal cuddles!

Roo and Wallaby hangout

Betsy the Bennett's Wallaby. Orphan, sanctuary resident.

Joey love!

Hee!

Mater the Wombat!
He loves scratches behind his ears and on his rump.

He is supposedly learning to burrow in this enclosure before being released into the wild.

Long-billed Corella with the resident Black Currawong visiting

birds were not meant for cages

wipe that smug grin off my face. finally.
because we all know.
happiness is not something that settles in.
not something that stays.
it doesn't matter if i know it'll return.
every uphill comes along with the corresponding down.
at 25, you'd think innocence would have long been experienced away.
but when he put his hand down the back of my skirt
i knew it was still there, a massive part of me.
if i have to write 20 poems about it.
to sort through it. feel okay with it.
then that's what happens.
bushwalkers. people who get lonely traveling.
who saw me coming from a kilometer away.
people are not innocent. no, not men.
they always have some secret plan.
a sports girl calendar hanging in their office.
a young, wwoofing german in their bed.
a tent built for two.
a line they know, eventually, some wayward, lonesome traveler will bite.
you say, 'trust me.' encourage me to push myself.
even with all those people out there - what are you implying? that they'd hear my muffled screaming?
i know better than anyone - i'd never be able to scream.
that is a noise that couldn't escape me.
pink robins in the riverside undergrowth.
reminders. to put on dancing music. the color and light.
no need to get carried away to darker corners of the stream. even the platypus needs air.
do not ever tell me to trust you!
that is earned, not deserved. you build it.
constantly maintain it.
prove it - stop it from crippling! you can't. you won't.
drinks are more important.
and a mother for your desperately needed family.
ANGER.
yes. i see you. from that cobweb filled window.
we both have tin rooves over our heads.
rain to listen to.
endless drops to count.
i know, i'm sorry, that so-called home is much too small for you. when you stretch.
spread those beautiful white wings.
we are all basically alone.
long-billed corella.
metal grates and a single log perch.
what do you think about, locked in that cage all day?

Wayatinah Lagoon to Something Wild Wildlife Sanctuary (4 April 2009)

Just had the most massive pig out. Bread. PB. Honey. Muesli. Milk. Tim tams. Chocolate. Tim tams with PB and milk. Amazingly stuffed. Mood is low. Caravan is dingy, but there are lots of cute animals. 3k walk from Mt. Field National Park. Beautiful trees and river. Today's ride was hard. My legs said, "um, no thank you. we are done working for a while." A spent a lot of time with granny gear and her obese cousin one gear up, now named Stewie. "Stewie! Stewie!" Singing and talking to myself. Very undulating first 15k, then it eased up. Ouse (pronounced ooze) was cute. Had signs made by school kids on poles, their drawings and "I wonder how dolphins breathe under water," "I wonder why dinosaurs were on Earth." Five k's past Ouse I heard the toot toot toot from Ron and Lola. One more cup of tea. Plus the tim tams! And an ice-cream bar! So sweet! I pedaled away and turned off towards Mt. Field Ntl Park. Hello hills. Again. I don't know if I was just tired, or if it really was as steep at the Mt. Black, Tullah hill, but ouch! A man had offered to give me a lift at the bottom when I was taking my jacket off, but that was out of the question. I hit my lowest speed up the trip: an exhilarating 4.2km/hr! Ran through my collection of exhausted, r-rated phrases and finally got to the top. The massive undulating hills kept coming though! "Why?" I cried. "Why so many hills?" I stopped 10k from the wildlife sanctuary (my next wwoofing spot) and ate nuts and an apple. I laid down on the grass, watched the passing clouds, and uh-oh, I couldn't get up! My body shouted, "yay, we're done!!" while my mind had to convince it that this wasn't the case. Luckily, the last stretch was mostly flat.

And, my number one highlight from the day: meeting Wooky! An 8-month old orphan wombat! I love wombat cuddles! But beware, rile Wooky up too much and she bites!

Waytinah Lagoon to Something Wild Wildlife Sanctuary
Total K's: 61.07
Avg Spd: 16.2 k/hr
Max Spd: 61 k/hr
Hours on bike: 3:45
KM scary hill rating: 4/7

Lake St. Clair to Wayatinah Lagoon (3 April 2009)

I very well intended to cycle the 132k's to Mt. Field National Park. Alarm went off at 7 and yep, there was no way I was getting out of my tent that early. When I finally got all my gear packed up and ready to go at 9:30, the thunder and hail started. "Nice day for a bike ride," I said to a man on the way to the bathroom. "Motorbike?" "Haha, no, push bike. Rain is okay, but hail, not so good." By 10 it had let up a bit and as I was leaving the visitor center a young Taiwanese guy stopped me, asking all about the bike and informing me that he'd wanted to travel Tasmana by bike too. Three of his friends came over, took my picture, and gave me lots of thumbs up! Good thing, because my physical energy was severely flat. it was hot in my raincoat, but raining enough that I kept it on. My legs just didn't want to move. Every inch up sent me below 10k/hr. After hitting some much needed downhill, I finally got into a rhythm, knowing I definitely wasn't getting to Mt. Field National Park today. At 30k, I stopped at a small shelter to have first lunch. There was graffiti everywhere and I was feeling very blah when, to my surprise, a campervan made a u-turn and pulled into the lot beside me. "Would you like a cup of tea, little lady?" Ron and Lola!! Yes! And two tim tams, thank you! I wasn't expecting to see them again. They pointed out a few campgrounds in the next 50k that they were thinking of staying at, so I said maybe I would see them there. After a glorious downhill sprint, I saw them pulled in next to the Nive River, filling up on water. I told them I didn't need another tea, but they poured me one anyway. They said there was a caravan park 16k past Terraleah, they could pay for a site there and I could "be family" and put my tent up next to them. That would put me at 70k for the day, a suitable distance, so I agreed to meet them there. I left them to begin the mega climb up towards Terraleah. No granny gear, but plenty of cursing. They tooted their horn as they passed and I grimaced and gave a miniscule wave. And after some serious undulating terrain, I was at Wayatinah Lagoon. Had a hot shower and stretched by the lagoon, and was filled up with chips, apple juice, and Lola's delicious veggie risoto. mmm! I don't think Ron and Lola will be so eager to invite more cyclists to stay with them, now that they've seen firsthand how much we eat! Ron and Lola are pretty hilarious. Filling in each other's sentences, with Ron being a bit louder. Quite the characters!

Lake St. Clair to Wayatinah Lagoon
Total K's: 71.60
Avg Spd: 18.4 k/hr
Max Spd: 56 k/hr
Time on bike: 3:53
KM scary hill rating: 2/7